Anna Stefanou and her fantastic hats

Anna Stefanou is a milliner with a fast-growing reputation for beautiful, handcrafted hats. We catch up with her about her practice, and how winning The Arts Society GLA Bursary at Cockpit Arts has played a key role in her career to date 

Image: Riccardo Ferrato

The Arts Society GLA (Greater London Area) Bursary at Cockpit Arts in London supports professional craftspeople working in traditional craft skills, particularly skills that are at risk of dying out. The bursary has been active since 2013, and in 2021 it was awarded to milliner Anna Stefanou. Each bursary recipient receives one year of business support and a subsidised studio space at Cockpit Arts. Read on to discover how Anna got into millinery and how, with the aid of the bursary, she is now defining where her practice will go next.

Anna in her studio. Image: courtesy Anna Stefanou

How did you become a milliner?

I initially trained as an architect but took a career break to raise my young family. I stumbled upon millinery when I got a voucher for a short course on it. I was hooked straight away. It follows the same tenets as architecture, being about form and human proportion an evoking emotion. I continued training in millinery and took internships with renowned milliners; then I decided to study full time, doing the HNC [Higher National Certificate] course at Morley College. A hat I made during the course received an award at the Feltmakers Design Competition and I graduated with distinction, with my graduate collection being featured if fashion publications. From then on, things really started to fall into place. I received the Cockpit Arts Society Bursary, which got me into Cockpit studios. I also started doing my own fashion collaborations, showing in London and Paris Fashion Week, while working freelance for other hat businesses – even working in the millinery department of a major Netflix series.

How do you describe your practice?

I am a creator of distinctive hats, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and design. I engage in a close partnership with fashion designers to craft custom pieces that harmonise with their collections and narratives. Additionally, I design unique showcase items alongside practical everyday hats, all of which feature distinctive patterns. These patterns result in original hats that offer a touch of quirkiness and the versatility to be worn on different occasions.

Image: Michael Stuart-Daley 

Why are hats important?

A hat is so much more than an accessory. A hat’s significance extends far beyond the practical function of shielding you from the elements. It’s a statement of individuality and self-expression, one that tells a story way beyond the object itself. The essence of what I do is a balancing act between imagination and reality. A hat must serve its practical purpose, and become a portal to the realms of fantasy. When someone wears a hat they are notsimply adorning their head; they are embracing a tale, a vision of themselves and the world they are in. Hats create focus and elongate the human form, but they also evoke emotion in a way that sometimes garments don’t. A hat is a statement piece in itself. It can turn a simple outfit into a memorable ensemble, making it a powerful tool for personal branding and leaving a lasting impression.

What are your chief influences? 

My practice is deeply influenced by the interplay between historical fashion and its transformative journey through time. Understanding the evolution of fashion is pivotal to creating designs that resonate with the contemporary landscape. Throughout history, the human body has undergone remarkable shifts to align with prevailing fashion trends, and these metamorphoses have been shaped by the ever-evolving geometry of style. I draw inspiration from the relationship between historical fashion and the human form. I am fascinated by how garments and accessories have adapted to the changing ideals of beauty and aesthetics. This exploration of historical context allows me to infuse a sense of narrative and depth into my designs.

Image: courtesy Anna Stefanou 

What have been the biggest challenges so far?

Millinery is such a niche field that it’s easy to become an overpriced hobby, rather than a job. I feel lucky to be supported along the way by my peers, especially designer and milliner Vivienne Lake, who was my tutor during the HNC. Alongside my own practice I have been working for her, and she has been a mentor to me for my own projects, as well as recommending me to fashion designers for collaborations. One of the biggest challenges of the industry in general is that work is seasonal and it’s difficult to plan for the whole year. Sometimes there is either too much work or not enough.

How did your Arts Society Bursary at Cockpit come about?

I graduated from the HNC during the pandemic and was at a crossroads as to how to take my practice further. I was aware that Cockpit was a hub for great makers of all practices and that it offered business support. Browsing the Cockpit website I saw The Arts Society Bursary was open for applications. During the application process I had to clarify my vision for my practice and how I would fit in within the Cockpit community, which was already a helpful first step. At the time, I was at the beginning of my professional journey, and I felt so honoured to be supported by The Arts Society and Cockpit at such a pivotal moment. 

Image: courtesy Anna Stefanou 

What impact has the award had on your practice? 

It’s made a world of difference. It was fantastic to receive this support so early in my journey. Being enabled to be part of the Cockpit community is in itself a stamp of approval for excellence within my field. The benefit has also been practical. Having a subsidised space for the first year of my practice while I am building my business and workflow has given me the freedom to explore, while being able to afford my space. Cockpit also offered an intensive series of business workshops right at the beginning of my award, which helped me put in place a framework for my practice that allowed for growth and having a sustainable business. Being part of the Cockpit community is invaluable. It is buzzing with creativity and talent across all fields and there is always a potential collaboration about, a friendly chat or someone to offer advice. Cockpit’s open studios have also put me in front of many people interested in my work, as well as new clients. Receiving this award has kick-started my business, and given me confidence and the drive to succeed.

Describe your current ambitions for your practice.

They are centred around artistic growth and meaningful impact. I want to continually refine my craft, pushing the boundaries of design innovation and exploring new techniques and materials. I aim to do more collaborative ventures with fashion designers, and form partnerships that can lead to dynamic cross-disciplinary projects that showcase the versatility and impact of hats in diverse contexts. Sharing knowledge is essential. I have recently taught workshops in Cockpit for Arts 4 Dementia, Bexley College and Westminster Kingsway College. I want to contribute to the millinery community by eventually getting into more teaching and empowering aspiring milliners to embark on their own creative journeys. I also want to further develop my own brand of everyday hats.

A hat created for fashion designer Guia Dell’Osso. Image: Michael Stuart-Daley

What advice would you give to someone wanting to enter millinery?

Master foundation techniques and invest time in honing your skills. Make, make and make again. Stay curious; continuously learn, adapt and evolve. Find your distinctive voice; while learning from others is essential, make room for your individuality to shine. Build a strong community around you; craft is about community and that community is your support network. They are the people who will offer insights and opportunities, and with whom you’ll collaborate. Remain passionate and build resilience; becoming a skilled craftsperson requires time and dedication. Let your love for your craft drive you forward. Even if it’s a journey with a few twists, it will be extremely rewarding.

Find out more about The Arts Society GLA Bursary at Cockpit at 

cockpitstudios.org/awards/arts-society-gla-bursary

For the latest about Anna’s work, see annastefanou.co.uk and her Instagram: @annastefanou