7 amazing reasons to visit the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic

This fascinating museum on Cornwall’s coastline tells the stories of magical practices, from ancient rituals to contemporary customs

View of the exterior of the museum

Where can you find the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic?

Head to Boscastle, a Cornish village situated in an inlet of the dramatic north coast, between Tintagel and Bude. The museum is nestled in an Elizabethan harbour on the banks of the River Valency. Look out for the impressive eight-foot willow sculpture of the Celtic horned god Cernunnos that guards the entrance. It was woven by Devon-based artist Woody Fox.

Two curse poppets, made from window putty, thought to date to the 1950s

Why should you visit?

The museum is internationally known for its celebration of British magical practices, extending from ancient times to the present day. Its collection is said to be the oldest and largest in the world. It spans over 4,500 objects and 8,000 books, and features everything from tarot cards to wands, and gnostic charms to poppets (figures made for placing a curse on someone). The museum is independent and was set up by Cecil Williamson, a screenwriter, director and practising occult expert who was born in Devon. After running the museum elsewhere, he found a permanent home for it in Boscastle in 1960. ‘Three miles away from this spot,’ he said, ‘you can find this pre-historic maze stone carved into a living rock face, proof that from ancient times man and his magic making with the world of spirit were active in this area.’ The museum is now run by curator and designer Simon Costin, who is also the director of the itinerant Museum of British Folklore. 

Cave Icon by artist Lisa Ivory 

Which exhibits are a must-see?

In addition to the fascinating pieces in the collection, check out Beasts Beguiled: Familiars & Wild Women, an exhibition of oil paintings by Lisa Ivory (until 31 October). The artist is known for exploring mythological and shapeshifting narratives, including feral beasts and mysterious female nudes. Her shadowy works tread a fine line between fear and desire, while connecting the human psyche to the untameable spirit of nature.

What’s on this month?

The Dark Gathering is an afternoon and evening event that observes the rituals of Halloween on 28 October, and which celebrates Cornish and Welsh customs. While this independent event originally took place outside the museum it has since grown too large and has now moved from Boscastle to nearby Tintagel for the first time. Expect to see ‘dark’ morris dancers, folk bands and the meeting of the Welsh ‘Mari Lwyds’ and the Cornish ‘Obby Oss’ known as Penkevyll – both take the form of hobby horses made from horse skulls. The event is extremely popular, so sign up for the waiting list here. 

Artist WhiteFeather Hunter 

Any special artistic connections? 

WhiteFeather Hunter was the museum’s 2022 artist-in-residence. The Canadian-born artist works across performance, video, craft and biological science research, and has an ongoing interest in feminist witchcraft. She is returning to Boscastle this autumn to curate the museum’s 2024 exhibition.

Make a day of it

Once you’ve taken in the museum why not enjoy an array of National Trust walks? They include a village stroll that takes in the harbour, coastal path and famous ‘blow hole’, and a longer woodland walk through Valency Valley. You can have tea and cake at The Pilchard Cellar Café, or stop off at the 16th-century Napoleon Inn for something more substantial. 

View of the upper gallery, featuring the Goddess and Horned God displays 

Here’s a fun fact

The museum has its own research journal, The Enquiring Eye, which is published twice a year featuring topics spanning witchcraft, magic, folklore, paganism and ‘everything in between’. It includes research articles and a section called ‘The Spider’s Web’, which celebrates readers’ discoveries. It is available to purchase via the museum’s online shop. 

Find out more at museumofwitchcraftandmagic.co.uk

Going local 

Do you live close by – then why not join the local Arts Society?

Local Societies include:

The Arts Society Bodmin – theartssocietybodmin.org.uk

The Arts Society Liskeard – liskeardartssociety.org.uk

Upcoming talks include Pevsner in Cornwall by Susie Harries (8 November, organised by The Arts Society Bodmin) and Charles Rennie Mackintosh by Stella Grace Lyons on 14 November (organised by The Arts Society Liskeard).

Please check with Society websites, as dates may occasionally change.