Gothic Grandeur vs. Modern Masterpiece: our visit to Liverpool

The Arts Society Chester visited both Liverpool cathedrals on Tuesday Nov 4th.  Pam and Madeleine did us proud with 3 interesting guided tours and a tasty soup-and-sandwich lunch!  While both cathedrals were completed in the last century, their history and style were very different. 

Liverpool Cathedral (Anglican) took over 100 years to complete, had considerable funding from wealthy benefactors, including some with links to the slave trade, and is in a traditional style.  It breaks some records: the longest cathedral nave in the world and the largest pipe organ in the UK amongst them. 

Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral (Roman Catholic) was completed in 5 years, was funded largely by public donation and its style is unique and modern. 

Our visit to its Crypt, however, amazed us with the scale of Lutyens original plan, which would have dominated the Liverpool landscape, exceeded St Peter’s (Rome) in size, and dwarfed its sister cathedral at the far end of Hope St. Our guide explained how the neighbouring Victoria Building clock tower would fit within the portico of the proposed edifice, with the huge building and dome utterly dwarfing it!

All our guides were very knowledgeable and answered our various queries and musings.  Knowing we were an Arts Society, they focused on the different forms of art contained within the buildings.  Brick and stonework were prominent, especially in the Anglican cathedral and the Crypt.  Much symbolism was displayed in the sculpting and the artworks.  Traditional and modern stained glass was visible, including the glass contained in the instantly recognisable lantern which tops the Metropolitan cathedral.  The two reredoses behind the main altars were a complete contrast, the plainness of the Catholic building contrasted with the more ornate Anglican one.

Another of the arts, music, featured in all 3 venues.  Liverpool Cathedral boasts a total of 6 organs, with the Henry Willis Grand Organ being the main feature.  They are still adding pipes, most recently the Echo division in just the last few years.  We were warned the organ tuner was visiting at the same time as us, but he didn’t disturb us! The Metropolitan Cathedral has a mere 3 instruments on a more modest scale, with the recently refurbished Walker Grand organ having just over 4,500 pipes.  The Crypt includes an underground concert hall and another organ.  Our Liverpool Cathedral guide told us of his mission to ensure that Frederick Burstall, the first Cathedral organist (who played only in the Lady chapel as that was all that existed then), takes his rightful place with a memorial on the inner walls of the cathedral alongside his successors.

Despite their distinctive styles, it was interesting to note that both cathedrals shared some artists. Arthur Dooley, a Liverpool sculptor, contributed a ‘risen Christ’ sculpture to both buildings: ‘Redemption’ in Chapel of the Holy Spirit at the Anglican and ‘Risen Christ’ in the Blessed Sacrament chapel at the Metropolitan.  Elizabeth Frink has works in both too. 

Women featured in both cathedrals.  The Lady Chapel at Liverpool Cathedral featured only female saints and stained-glass windows at the entrance were dedicated to ‘Noble women’ who had contributed to English and/or Liverpool life.  Wall hangings at the Metropolitan Cathedral were designed and made by Sister Anthony, a Notre Dame sister who was head of Art at the college across the road, and a merry band of volunteer sewers.  One commemorated the visit of Pope St John Paul II to Liverpool in 1982.

Overall, it was a rewarding trip, even for the author, who had visited both venues many times before, but had never had a guided tour of either!  For those who couldn’t make it, both cathedrals have information on their websites:

https://liverpoolcathedral.org.uk/about-us/

https://liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk/visit-us/insidethe-cathedral/

Art UK has images of several artworks at the Anglican cathedral https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/search/venue:liverpool-cathedral-7944/page/2